I went to Stierbach Baronial Birthday event this past weekend, where friends celebrated Constanca Daguir’s elevation to the Order of the Laurel. It was a wonderful event [despite my utter failure in planning] with friends and the weather was great for most of the day. I look forward to what she creates ahead, especially as Constanca creates in my own area of interest, tailoring and clothing.
Speaking of, the event really highlighted that I needed to new set of patterns. My beloved green suit is too small for me now. And so I spent Sunday drafting a new set of bara tapes and started a new doublet pattern.
My go to is still Matthew Gnagy’s methods. I drop the shoulder slant a bit for my own fit but otherwise it’s a solid method that works for me. Having a metal right angle really helps, and my favorite metal yardstick is a workhorse. I use rolls of paper from Home Depot (and need to grab a fresh roll).
As the first image of this post shows, I also organize my patterns by hanging. Having a curtain rod mounted and a set of tailor hooks and a punch has really helped organize things. All pattern pieces go together, get punched, and hang on their own hanger together so they are off the floor and easily found. Eventually I would like to get to drafting from tape to fabric, but for now I create paper patterns for things.
Having a pattern that works for you is such a freeing thing. Not worrying about fit helps free up the creative process for things that matter, like fabric and trim and any unique design elements.
Speaking of, I have a wardrobe list and now have fabric incoming. Enough lightweight wool for two suits (4 yards each) and a LOVELY green bottle silk for a third suit. I still have four yards of fine black wool for a heavier suit. I already have… 8 yards of white linen? I think that much for new shirts, and also a yard of handkerchief weight linen to make cuff and collar ruffles in that. This is plenty enough fabric for a solid start on the wardrobe this winter season!
Lightweight linen ruffles is a detail I’ve seen on extant smocks and I want to try it on male shirts. Other than that, maybe one of the shirts will have embroidery, but I need to replace a number of old cotton shirts with linen. Now that I think about it, one of them should have embroidery, for the fancy green suit.
I’m quite megachuffed at this start and will report on progress.
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